Field notes: Skopje, Macedonia – reimagining (and rebuilding) the past
A new set of field notes from the VPSN’s Alex Butler. This time, from Alex’s recent visit to Skopje, Macedonia.
If you walked down Macedonia Street in Skopje in November, you would have seen what looked like a beautiful old Orthodox church undergoing a restoration. A closer look, though, would reveal something different: the ‘historic church’ is not a restoration project; rather, it is a brand new building.
A church ‘restoration’ project
I visited this Macedonian city on a weekend trip, while studying abroad in Europe. While doing so, I was intrigued to see the many ‘faux heritage’ buildings, plazas, and statues that have popped up as a result of the Skopje 2014 project – a civic initiative aimed at beautifying the city’s public spaces.
Making some inquiries, I learned that in 1963, Skopje, then a part of Yugoslavia, suffered a severe earthquake that devastated the area and destroyed 80% of the city’s buildings. As such, Skopje was rebuilt in a brutal modernist style that was typical of socialist regimes. This style is still part of the architectural backdrop for the Skopje 2014 developments.
In recent years, however, there has been a push to reclaim – and reintroduce – more of the traditional types of buildings that characterized the city. The project includes the construction of new government buildings in classical style, new monuments to old events, and a dizzying number of statues in the city centre. As a visitor that doesn’t know any better, you might think some of these new constructions have been there for generations. In reality, I realized my pet cat is probably older than most of them.
The attempt to restore aspects of the city’s past has reveals interesting contradictions. Places revitalized as part of the Skopje 2014 initiative, such as Macedonia Square (the city’s central public plaza, complete with the massive Warrior On a Horse statue), and Zena Borec Park (with the notable Fallen Heroes monument, are well-utilized and lively public spaces. Both speak to success of the initiative.
Photo of the statue in Macedonia Square
Yet, this overall project has been highly controversial in Macedonia with surveys revealing significant opposition to its continuation. Apart from being a massive expenditure in a country faced with increasing poverty and unemployment, the project has also been criticized for being an inauthentic attempt to brand the city as something it is not – or perhaps something that it is ‘not anymore.’
Zena Borec Park Monument
Skopje 2014 provokes interesting questions about heritage conservation. Is it inauthentic to recreate Skopjein this classical style? After all, this was the predominant style many years ago. Where is the line between restoring and recreating? What about the interplay between history, nostalgia and innovation? How does this affect the identity of the place? And most importantly, exactly who is the restoration/recreation being done for?
From my short visit in Skopje, I found Macedonians to be very proud of their history, including their roots to antiquity and the ancient Macedon kingdom. Although the finances of the project are a whole other issue, the reference to the past seems justified – and not inauthentic – in my opinion. But the larger questions remain.
Vancouver does not have the same long history as Macedonia, but we can also be equally proud of our architectural history. We lament when it vanishes – as local books and websites frequently remind us. We even have guidelines in parts of the city that encourage us to build buildings that are in keeping with architectural styles from the past century. Doubtless, there is a debate to be had about this as well. What are the implications for our public spaces? My take: our public spaces ought to be designed in a more modern and distinctive west coast style. And yet, one of our most cherished spaces –the Art Gallery plaza – is defined by its relationship to a neo-classical structure.
Want to share your own set of field notes for a public space or place that you’ve visited? We’re always looking for contributions! Send us your story idea at blog [at] vancouverpublicspace [dot] ca.